If you regularly check C&T’s blog, you know that every few weeks, the technical editors include a quilting tip or technique. Over the past year, we have shared with you some of our favorite “tricks of the trade” to help make your quilting and sewing easier.
Now we want to encourage you, our readers, to give us your input as to the topics you would like to see covered. What kinds of quiltmaking, sewing, or crafting tips would you like to see on our blog in the next few months? Just put your request in the comments section below and we will try to cover what we can over the next year. In the blog, we try to address topics that may come up in several types of projects, and not those limited to a specific project in a specific book.
We are looking forward to hearing from you.
There is a tool used by quilters to help deal with loose thread ends on the surface of their quilts. It is a self-threading or easy-threading needle, pictured below.
This needle has 2 eyes in the head. The lower one is designed the way we are all familiar with – after squinting, ease the tip of the thread through the eye of the needle and pull. However, the second eye is designed so that a length of thread can be pulled down through an opening at the top and it will “pop” into place. Then, the needle behaves in the familiar way, you stitch and pull, stitch and pull, and the thread does not easily pop back out of the opening.
The threading of the needle is the step that is simplified with this tool, so it becomes an easy task to thread the needle, knot the ends and bury many individual ends of thread when using this tool.
Charlotte Warr Andersen uses this type of needle to easily handle any tail ends resulting from machine quilting. Further information on machine quilting and burying loose thread ends can be found in her book One Line at a Time.
Happy Quilting,
The Tech Editors
This article is part of the Quilting Tips from the Tech Editors tutorial series. Recent tutorials include:
There is nothing more frustrating than stitching a seam and then seeing that the stitches are imperfect. You may need to adjust the thread tension, but before you do that, try a couple of other simple things first.
Troubleshooting the problem:
•Clean out any lint in the feed dog area.
• Make sure the bobbin is wound smoothly and evenly. If not rewind it.
• Rethread the machine, both top and bobbin. It is crucial that the presser foot is up when you do this.
• Try putting in a new needle. If you are using a specialized thread, be sure the needle is designed for the particular thread you are using.
• Change to a different thread altogether. Occasionally the thread is bad. Never buy cheap thread—it is simply not worth the agony!
Continue Reading…
If you want to miter the corners of your binding on your quilt, then here are some simple steps to follow:
1. Stitch the binding on to the front of the quilt following the steps outlined in the tutorial for attaching a double-fold binding, previously posted on this blog: Quilting Tips: Binding.
2. Bring the binding to the back of the quilt on one side of the quilt. Blind stitch the folded edge in place only on this one side of the quilt. Stop stitching about 1 1/2″ from the corner.
3. As shown below, bring the binding over to the back of the quilt on the next adjacent side of the quilt (labeled “1st”), making a 45° at the end.
Continue Reading…
Some quilters pre-wash their fabric before sewing, others don’t. It becomes a personal decision on what is best for you.
If you decide to pre-wash fabric in the washing machine, use a lingerie bag to corral the small or older vintage pieces to protect them and minimize fraying at the edges. You can use a zigzag stitch or overlock stitch around the cut edges of your larger pieces of fabric to prevent the threads from raveling.
This tip comes from Fast, Fun & Easy Scrapbook Quilts by Sue Astroth.
Happy Washing,
The Tech Editors
This article is part of the Quilting Tips from the Tech Editors tutorial series. Recent tutorials include:
Oftentimes, you might want to use lines of machine quilting that surround your blocks to anchor the three layers of your quilt top together, or you may just enjoy the pattern created from these lines of machine quilting. Regardless, there is a method of quilting called “in the ditch” which uses almost-hidden lines of machine quilting to anchor the key seam lines in your quilt.
This method involves stitching right next to the seams between the blocks, sashing and borders in your quilt top, on the side with the least bulk. If you pressed your seam allowances to one side of the seam, then your needle is kept on the opposite side without the seam allowances.
It is important to stitch as straight (or evenly on curves) as possible, keeping the stitching line as close to the seam as possible. This is a good place to use your machine walking foot. The following photo shows the correct positioning of the presser foot and needle in relation to the seam.
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Collecting fabrics that you love for future quilts may be the most fun part of the quilting process. Categorizing and organizing your fabric pieces by color is an easy way to arrange them so that you can develop a particular color palette for your next quilt.
Fabrics stored by color. Photo from "M'Liss Rae Hawley's Scrappy Quilts"
In Patchwork Quilts Made Easy – Revised, 2nd Edition, Jean Wells has this tip for quilters:
If you really love a fabric, and think that it may be eventually used in a border, then buy 3 yards of it. If you aren’t quite sure where you will use it, buy a smaller amount, about 3/4 yard.
Buying fat quarters, pieces that have been cut approximately 18’’ x 22’’ instead of the usual 9’’ by 42’’ quarter yard piece, are a great way to expand your stash.
Happy Quilting,
The Tech Editors
This article is part of the Quilting Tips from the Tech Editors tutorial series. Recent tutorials include:
At some point in the quilt-making process you will decide how to finish off your quilt: Hand quilting, machine quilting or tying are 3 possibilities. Regardless of the method, you will need to create the quilt sandwich (quilt top, batting, and backing) and thoroughly baste to hold the layers together.
When tying your quilt, the knots can go either on the top or back of the quilt, decide based on aesthetics or comfort. If you want the ties on top, start by pushing the needle in from the top. If you want the ties on the back, start by pushing the needle through from the back.
Two common threads used to tie quilts are DMC perle cotton or crochet cotton. Thread a large-eyed needle with the strand you prefer.
The tying process follows.
• Insert the needle through all 3 layers and pull it out the other side, leaving a tail about 2’’ long at the beginning of the strand, long enough to tie.
• Push the needle back through all 3 layers, approximately 1/8’’ to 1/4’’ from the start. Pull the thread.
• Follow the steps shown in the photos to tie the knot.
caption: 1. Tie a half-knot. Continue Reading…
Are you having problems with points getting cut off or shifting when you sew half-square triangles or flying geese units together to make a block? This can be frustrating but there are a few tricks that can make it easier for you.
Place the units to be sewn right sides together with the seams’ edges matching. Then push a pin straight through the intersection of the point in the front unit.
Push the pin through the point
Hold the seam allowances slightly apart and push the pin straight through the point in the back unit. You need to keep this positioning pin vertical—do not let it slant or use it to pin the units together because things will shift!
Continue Reading…
Pressing seams as you go along is so important in your sewing projects. Usually when making garments, the seams are pressed open to reduce bulk. However, when making quilts, usually the seams are pressed to one side. This step helps to prevent bearding, where batting may show through the seams. There are exceptions to this convention, you need to decide what is right for you.
Pressing requires an up and down motion with your iron. By using this technique, your quilt pieces and blocks won’t stretch and distort. Follow these steps:
1. Set the seam by placing the iron on the seam just sewn, on the wrong side of the fabric. Press.
2. Flip the top piece up and gently press the seam from the right side of the fabric. The seam will be pressed toward the fabric piece that was on top when you set the seam.
Plan ahead so that the seams are pressed as shown in the project directions, or toward the darker fabric, or in the direction that works best for the quilt.
Happy Quilting,
The Tech Editors
Part of the Quilting Tips from the Tech Editors tutorial series
